Get Your Orchid to Rebloom

Most grocery store and gift orchids are Phalaenopsis (moth orchids). The good news is they can rebloom reliably at home. The frustrating part is they usually will not do it on the schedule we want unless a few basics are right: light, roots, watering rhythm, and a small temperature cue.

This guide walks you through exactly what to do after the last flower drops, how to encourage a new spike, and what to troubleshoot if your orchid looks healthy but refuses to bloom.

First, know what “rebloom” really means

Orchids do not bloom continuously. They cycle through:

• Blooming: flowers open and last weeks to months
• Rest and growth: roots and leaves grow, energy stores rebuild
• Spike initiation: a new flower spike forms (or branches) when conditions are right

For Phalaenopsis, the most common trigger is a cooler night period paired with bright, indirect light. Many homes are warm and a bit dim, so orchids often stay stuck in leaf mode.

One more reality check: a young, recently repotted, or stressed Phalaenopsis may need a full growth cycle before it has the energy to bloom again. In other words, no spike yet does not always mean you are doing something wrong.

Step-by-step: how to get an orchid to rebloom

1) Give it brighter light (this is the big one)

If your orchid is not blooming, it is often simply not getting enough light to build energy for flowers.

• Best window: east window is usually perfect. South can work if filtered. West can be too hot in summer.
• What “bright indirect” looks like: you can comfortably read near the plant during the day, and the plant casts a soft shadow.
• Direct sun caution: avoid harsh midday sun on the leaves, especially in south or west windows. Use a sheer curtain or pull the plant back from the glass to prevent scorch.
• Leaf color cue: medium green is ideal. Very dark green often means too little light. Reddish or yellow patches can mean too much direct sun.

If you do not have good natural light, a small LED grow light 10 to 14 hours a day can make reblooming much more consistent. As a starting point, place the light about 6 to 18 inches above the leaves (closer for weaker lights, farther for stronger ones) and adjust if you see stress.

2) Water correctly so the roots stay active

Reblooming depends on healthy roots. A Phalaenopsis does best when you water thoroughly, then let the mix become mostly dry. That wet to dry rhythm keeps roots active without suffocating them.

• When to water: when the potting mix is mostly dry and the roots look silvery. In many homes that is every 7 to 10 days, sometimes faster in summer.
• How to water: take it to the sink, run room-temperature water through the pot for 20 to 30 seconds, then let it drain completely.
• If the mix is very dry: bark can become water-repellent. If water runs straight through, soak the pot for 10 to 15 minutes, then drain fully.
• Avoid: water sitting in the crown (the center where leaves meet). Tip it gently and blot if water gets trapped.

Quick root check: green roots usually mean moisture. Silvery roots mean it is time to water. Mushy brown roots mean it stayed too wet for too long.

3) Feed lightly, consistently

Orchids are light feeders. You are not trying to force blooms with heavy fertilizer. You are supporting steady growth.

• Simple plan: fertilize at 1/4 to 1/2 strength every 2 to 4 weeks during active growth.
• How to mix: start with the label directions for orchids (or houseplants), then dilute to 1/4 to 1/2 of that rate.
• Type: a balanced orchid fertilizer works fine. If you only have a general houseplant fertilizer, dilute it more.
• Flush monthly: once a month, water thoroughly with plain water to rinse out fertilizer salts.

4) Provide the temperature cue that signals blooming

For most Phalaenopsis, a small drop in nighttime temperature helps trigger spike formation.

• Target cue: nights around 60 to 65°F (15 to 18°C) for 2 to 4 weeks, or aim for about a 10°F (5 to 6°C) drop from day to night. Some plants respond to a slightly wider cool range, roughly 58 to 65°F (14 to 18°C).
• Day temps: typical daytime home temps (about 70 to 80°F or 21 to 27°C) are fine.
• Easy way to do it: place the orchid near a slightly cooler window at night (not touching cold glass) or in a room that runs cooler in the evening.
• Avoid extremes: do not expose it to freezing drafts or heater blasts.

If your home is the same temperature day and night, your orchid may grow leaves beautifully and still delay blooming.

5) Decide what to do with the old flower spike

After the last bloom drops, look at the spike (the long stem the flowers were on):

• If the spike is green: you can cut it back to just above a node (a small bump on the spike) to encourage branching. This can give quicker, smaller reblooms.
• If the spike is brown and dry: cut it off at the base with clean scissors.
• If you want bigger blooms later: many growers cut a green spike off at the base and let the plant focus on roots and leaves, then spike fresh.

There is no single perfect choice. If your orchid is small or recovering, prioritize plant strength over fast flowers.

6) Repot if the mix is old or the roots are crowded

Old orchid bark breaks down and holds too much water, which stresses roots and delays blooming.

Repot if:

• the potting mix is spongy or smells sour
• water takes a long time to drain
• roots are circling tightly and there is barely any mix left
• you see a lot of dead, hollow, or mushy roots

Best timing: after blooming, when you see new root tips starting. Use a chunky orchid bark mix and a pot with good drainage and airflow.

Timeline: when to expect a new spike and blooms

Once conditions are right, a Phalaenopsis often follows this rough timeline:

• Spike appears: often 4 to 12 weeks after the cooler night cue begins, but it can take longer depending on light, season, and plant maturity
• Buds form and enlarge: another 4 to 8 weeks
• Blooms open: often 3 to 6 months from “fixing the basics” to flowers

If you changed care last week and nothing has happened yet, that is normal. Orchids respond slowly, but they do respond.

Common reasons an orchid won’t rebloom (and quick fixes)

It grows leaves but never spikes

• Most likely: not enough light, or no day-night temperature difference
• Fix: move to brighter filtered light, add a grow light, and provide cooler nights for a few weeks

Lots of roots look brown or mushy

• Most likely: staying wet too long, broken-down potting mix, poor drainage
• Fix: repot into fresh chunky mix, trim dead roots, and water only when nearly dry

Wrinkled leaves even though you water

• Most likely: root loss (it cannot take up water), or watering too lightly without soaking
• Fix: check roots, repot if needed, and water thoroughly with full drainage (soak if the mix is very dry)

Bud blast (buds yellow and drop before opening)

• Most likely: sudden change in temperature, drafts, very dry air, or ethylene gas from ripening fruit nearby
• Fix: keep it away from vents and cold windows, maintain steady conditions, move fruit bowl away

It spiked once, but now it is stalled

• Most likely: low light or inconsistent watering during spike growth
• Fix: keep light bright and steady, water on schedule, avoid moving the plant daily

How to tell a new spike from a root

This matters because people often mistake a root for a spike and start changing care unnecessarily.

• New root tip: rounded, shiny, often looks like a little green or silvery nub that points downward or sideways
• New spike: flatter tip that looks like a tiny mitten or beak, usually emerges between leaves and heads upward
• As it grows: spikes start to look slightly notched or segmented, while roots stay round with a smooth velamen surface

If you are unsure, wait a week. Spikes become obviously pointy and directional as they elongate.

Best care while the orchid is spiking

• Do not rotate constantly: spikes bend toward light. If you want a straighter spike, keep the plant oriented the same way.
• Stake early: when the spike is 6 to 8 inches tall, loosely clip it to a stake to prevent snapping.
• Keep humidity moderate: 40 to 60% is a good range for most homes.
• Humidity tip: a pebble tray or running a humidifier nearby can help. Avoid misting into the crown since trapped water can lead to rot.
• Skip heavy feeding: keep fertilizer light. Too much can stress roots and cause salt buildup.

Simple rebloom checklist

• Bright, indirect light most of the day
• Water thoroughly, then let it become mostly dry, and drain completely
• Light fertilizer during growth, flush monthly
• Cooler nights for 2 to 4 weeks (or a day-night drop) to trigger spiking
• Fresh, airy potting mix and healthy roots

If you do these five things, you are not “hoping” for a rebloom. You are building the conditions that make blooming the orchid’s normal behavior.

FAQ

How often do orchids rebloom?

Many Phalaenopsis bloom once a year under average home conditions. With strong light and steady care, some rebloom twice a year.

Should I cut the spike after flowering?

If it is brown, yes. If it is green, you can cut above a node for a faster, smaller rebloom, or cut at the base to encourage the plant to rest and produce a fresh spike later.

Can I use ice cubes to water my orchid?

I do not recommend it. Phalaenopsis are warm-growing orchids and prefer thorough watering with room-temperature water, followed by complete drainage.

Why are my orchid leaves so dark green?

Usually it is a low-light sign. Dark green leaves look healthy but can mean the plant is not making enough energy to bloom.